An Ode to Fallas
Valencia’s biggest annual cultural event Fallas was due to take place this week from 15th until 19th March but has been postponed for the second year running due to Covid. The Valencian government had held out hopes that the festival could still go ahead until the very last minute.
President of the Valencian government Ximo Puig estimates that the cancellation of Fallas will represent over 700 million Euros lost by the Valencian community while the block on tourism continues to put thousands of jobs at risk.
I especially wanted to write this special homage in celebration of this important Valencian festival. Furthermore, there is very little information about it, especially in English.
This year’s iconic masked monument courtesy of Walpurgys
The Origins of Fallas
The first documented reference to Fallas dates back to 1774 and in medieval Valencian, the word falla (from the Latin word fax, 'torch') was used to name the torches that were placed on top of the watchtowers to celebrate San José “Saint Joseph”. On the eve of Saint Joseph's Day, bonfires were lit to announce the festival called cremà, which literally means “to burn”.
The Five Days of Fallas
There is so much that goes on during the five days of fallas, schools close and the city shuts down to celebrate the occasion in a crescendo leading up to Saint Joseph’s Day which is a bank holiday here in Valencia.
From the 1st until 19th of March, a Mascletá is held at 2pm at Valencia’s City Hall every day, a colossal petardos “firecracker” display that stimulates all the senses. During the show, the loud sounds of canons and firecrackers can be heard and rumblings felt all around the city, the air is filled with colourful smoke and the smell of gunpowder, the crowds cheer entranced by the sounds and soak it all in, it is so moving and impressive.
The city divides itself into over 300 different falla “groups” in the different neighborhoods and falleras each belong to a particular falla and host their own events, from paella cooking contests, activities for kids, verbenas “street parties” with live music and DJ’s. The atmosphere is incredible and the city is full of locals and tourists alike enjoying the festivities. The city is filled with smoke and the smell of gunpowder from the daily mascletás and firework displays at night and the beautiful fallas dresses and flowers bring so much colour and life to the city.
The real festivities start on the evening of 15th March with Planta which is the setting up of the fallas monuments around the 300 different falla communities. These monuments, typically made from wood and other flammable materials are mostly satirical works of both global and local news and events, and cover a range of political, cultural and sporting topics.
It’s a true union of artisanship where carpenters, painters, sculptors and artists band together throughout the year to create their monuments in time for the Planta.
This very same night, judges inspect and chose their winners of the different prizes which are broken down into categories based on the size of the falla and the amount of money spent in the making of. The competition results are announced on 16th of March and falleras parade in their costumes and collect their prizes.
Pure joy and excitement. Image courtesy of Armando Romero Frances
On the 17th and 18th La Ofrenda de Flores a la Virgen de los Desamparados “offering of flowers to the Virgin of the Forsaken” takes place where falleras parade in their groups wearing their traditional dress and offer flowers to the Virgin at the Basilica Cathedral. It’s a real spectacle of colour with the vivid and beautiful Valencian silks of the traditional dress and flowers.
And so, we arrive at the main event and to celebrate Saint Joseph’s Day, each falla burns their monument, of course with more street partying. The festivities finally come to a close at midnight with fireworks over Turia Park. As you can imagine, everyone goes home completely exhausted but on a real high after a full week of celebrating.
The burning of the monuments along with fireworks on Saint Joseph’s Day. Image courtesy of Armando Romero Frances
More than just a Festival
Whilst researching this article and speaking to different Falleras (someone that loves, eats, sleeps & breathes Fallas), I very quickly realized that Fallas to many Valencians is much more than just some festival, it’s a way of life. So much so that there are weekly Fallas events and businesses make money from the Fallera community all year round.
The industry as a whole involves so many small businesses: dressmakers, jewelers, pyrotechnicians, artists, florists, specialist hair dressers, musicians and of course hotels and restaurants. It’s heartbreaking to know that so many are struggling and affected by the postponement.
Words from Falleras
Concha Godoy who has been a super fallera from a very young age says that to her, Fallas means, “the arrival of spring and the good weather, the longest days, days of celebration of our traditions, fun and non-stop socializing with family and friends.
Concha says that she misses EVERYTHING, “I miss going to the mascletás at 2pm at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento with my friends, the smell of gunpowder, the music and the Fallas monuments brightening the streets, going to see the flower offerings to the Virgin de los Desamparados, people in the streets, the festivities, even the Fallas fatigue when it’s all over.”
(Image of Concha enjoying fallas with her family)
Judith Górriz started her company Peinaditos in 2012 specializing in fallera hair and make-up, outside of fallas, she also attends brides and guests of events. She worked freelance for many years and in 2019 opened her first shop on Calle Azcárraga in the center of Valencia.
Judith also teaches fallera hairstyle courses for those who want to learn how to create the traditional Valencian hairdo and sells products related to fallera hair. Three years ago, she created her own line of specialised products for falleras. Among her clients, she has many Falleras Mayores (senior Falleras) and also members of the Fallera Court of Honor.
The intricacies of a traditional fallera hairstyle. Image courtesy of Judith Górriz
Fallas has always played an important role in Judith’s life, “I have been a fallera since I was very young and I have lived our festivities very intensely as a Fallera Mayor Infantil and Fallera Mayor of my falla and later as a member of the Court of Honor of the Fallera Mayor in Valencia in 2006.” She continues, “now I serve them professionally, styling hundreds of falleras throughout the year who come to be combed and made up. Fallas week is very intense because I work with up to 40 falleras per day from 15th until 19th March. The work is fast-paced and tiring and it doesn't leave me much time to enjoy the festival myself but I live the festival in another way now, giving an essential service and enjoying the joy and magic of fallas through my clients.”
Judith’s clients with full fallera hair and make-up. Image courtesy of Judith Górriz
The cancellation of Fallas for the second year in a row has hit Judith’s business hard. “In 2020 my turnover fell more than 80% and I am afraid that this year my income will be affected in the same way.”
Judith continues, “it has been a blow to the whole industry as the festival was stopped for a year and no aid has been offered to the sector. The Valencia City Council has launched a plan for the fallera industry but nothing has reached us yet. Fallas fuels a lot of businesses in Valencia: silk shops, dressmakers, tablecloth artisans, goldsmiths, hairdressers, make-up artists, shoemakers, photographers, florists, pyrotechnicians, fallero artists, musicians and a long list of professionals whos businesses are suffering. We need Fallas to be celebrated as soon as the health situation allows it, albeit symbolically and quickly because we need to start working again.”
When asked what Judith misses most about the festival, “Fallas means so much more than just the Fallas week. Fallera activity keeps me busy all year long. From June when the commissions begin to appoint the new Senior Falleras until July of the following year when the Valencian Court of Honor pre-selections are held.”
“I live an intense year with the Senoir Falleras who come to me for their hair and make-up. I miss working with them, sharing their experiences, their joy, the busy weekends of working 12 hours non-stop. I miss the courses I teach and the clients from previous years who keep coming back to work with me. In short, everything. I especially miss the atmosphere: the smell of gunpowder, the music, the monuments in the streets, the offering of the flowers... 2020 was going to be the first Fallas that I would experience in my new shop which is not happening this year either, I just can’t wait for it to happen again.”
Judith believes fallas will be celebrated differently when resumed once again, “I sincerely believe that Fallas 2022 will be very different from what we know and the priority will be people's health. For now, at the very least, we should be able to plant and burn the monuments and organize an offering for the senior Falleras, so that they can end their reign and others can be selected and fulfill their dream in 2022. This way, the fallera industry can start moving again. I hope that soon we can relive fallas the way we have always done, with the streets full of people celebrating.”
Are you a Fallera?
So, there you have it, I hope that if you have never been to Fallas, this paints the perfect picture and entices you to attend the next one.
As you can imagine, there are also many Valencians that can’t stand the thought of being in Valencia during the festival with all the noise and disruption and so use the holiday to get as far away from the city as possible.
Which camp do you think you fall into? I know which one I do!
Thank Yous
To my dear friend and super fallera Concha for sharing with us your love for fallas.
To Judith for answering my questions and telling us about your life as a fallera and letting us in on the intricacies of your business Peinaditos.
To Cesar Gonzales, Armando Romero Frances and Juan Walpurgys for allowing me to use your beautiful images.